Summer in The Rockies
The Altitude Trail - Hut-to-hut biking
in Colorado high country Reprinted from
the June-July 1995 issue of Men's Journal with permission from
Todd Balf
From the
Betty Bear Hut on Colorado's 10th Mountain Trail, there are two
ways to mountain bike to the Continental Divide at 11,925-foot
Hagerman Pass. The first was easy, our guide explained, but one
stretch would entail pushing our bikes for three-quarters of
a mile on a hiking-only trail before gaining a road for the remaining
mile and a half to Hagerman. The other route required a four-mile
descent around Ivanhoe Lake before a four-mile ascent to Hagerman,
an overall elevation gain of 1,125 feet. It was the tour's next
to last day, and a September snow dusted everything from Mount
Massive down to the low whortleberry. Weather-wise, it was liable
to do anything. There at the trail junction, our group of seven
peered into one another's faces. It was a no-brainer. "Yep",
said Andy, one of the participants, his voice trailing off downhill, "I'd
sure hate to get my feet wet walking."
You don't have
to be a fat-tire yahoo to become addicted to cruising in Colorado's
high country. Paragon Guides' five-day hut-to-hut trip on the
10th Mountain Trail actually includes world-class hiking options,
but you'll find it hard to skip any of the riding. With elevations
of 8,000 to 12,000 feet, the tour is unique in the United States
-- nothing less than a Haute Route for mountain bikers. The trip
consists of a 100-mile circumnavigation of the Holy Cross Wilderness,
from Sylvan Lake near Vail to the mining town of Leadville, with
overnights at three of the system's 12 alpine huts. Paragon's
longtime head guide, Don Shefchik, will welcome you with two
words: "Start drinking." Dehydration is a serious and
common problem among altitude riders. Each morning one of the
two or three guides debriefs the group on the day's route, rest
spots, and options. Beginning at West Brush Creek, the major
climbs are almost uniformly moderate, and many of the dirt roads
seem almost groomed. Energetic riders are accommodated, too:
Guided single-track options through tunnel-like aspen groves
and bermed sagebrush are often available. Several of the most
memorable downhills are also options, offered after the day's
official riding is concluded. For pre-dinner yuks at the Peter
Estin Hut for example, you might opt for the seven mile cruiser
to Yeoman Park; at the Betty Bear Hut, the sundown special is
an exposed, heavily switch backed eight-miler to the Frying pan
River. (Most riders make the return trip in a sagwagon.)
Every hut is custom-built, south-facing,
and rigged with a wood-burning stove, a propane burner, bunks
for 16 and an outhouse with an exceptional view. Solar panels
provide electricity for reading lights, and the broad, sunny
decks aren't a bad place to loosen knotted hamstrings. A fraternal
spirit permeates; Paragon's guides encourage riders to pitch
in with dinner, split wood, or read aloud from the hut's guest
book. (At the Estin: "Remember,
God vastly overestimated his ability when he created man. Don't
screw up.")
The only night not spent in a hut comes
midtrip at the Frying pan River Ranch, a fishing retreat with
all the amenities. At the end of a dusty ride, there's a happy
hour by the creek, a gourmet dinner, and a moonlit hot tub overlooking
Nast Lake. It's hard to imagine a finer day.- Todd Balf
Contact Paragon Guides today to join us on a backcountry adventure!
970.926.5299 or Toll-Free: 877.926.5299 info@paragonguides.com • contact form
